Just echoing what all the others have said, that's all good advice you got there - I hope you track down any issues - I think we have got you in a position where you can run INDI on the Astroberry Pi, and we all look forward to any results you might have!

Hi,

Thanks very much for the reply, I forgot I've got an app on my phone from BT that gives me the IP addresses so its easy for me to see the RPI.

I think I have enough info to get going and now I need to learn Kstars & Ekos.

You have a similar set up to me, I have the ASI 1600 MM Cool, HEQ5 Pro (Belt Drive), Skywatcher ED80 and a Altai Astro GP cam for guiding. I bought the ASI 1600MM cool 2nd hand and have not really used it in anger, how do you find your camera. I see you have the Esprit, this is what I would like next.

Thanks again

Doug

I know you were not asking me, but,

The ASI1600MM is a great CMOS camera. I don't think you will be disappointed.

The Esprit 120 Pro is also on my wish-list - once we are over the current issues worldwide, and I can look at the bank balance with confidence, it's my next purchase (along with the necessary accessories).

Hi,

I would just like to thank everyone for their help to-date on this one.

I am now starting to understand RPI & Astroberry. I'll set everything up and will proceed to attach one piece of equipment to the software at a time so I can ensure it is working properly before moving onto the next one.

Thanks again

Doug

Thanks,

I've been using a modified DSLR for many years and took a punt on the ASI 1600MM, Starlight express filter wheel and filters. I think the camera itself will be a big learning curve as I'm use to doing 5 - 10 min subs when at a dark site and I understand you can use much shorter subs with this camera.

Doug

Hi,

Just a quick question, when coming out of Astroberry do I use 'Shutdown' or 'Disconnect' or doesn't it matter.

Thanks

Doug

Shutdown to preserve your file-system integrity if powering off, disconnect if you are going to leave it turned on and connect to it later.

Yes, the camera rocks! I have the Pro version which has more internal memory than the original Cool version.

I think the best piece of advise I can give you for the camera is: try to always use the same gain, offset and sensor temperature. I use gain 75, offset 12 and temperature 10 degrees Celcius for all my images.

Second best piece of advise: always use exposure times that you choose from a pre-selected list of possibilities, like 30, 60, 90, 120, 300 and 600 seconds. That way you can create a dark library by taking, say, 60 dark images for each exposure time and create master darks for those. Those master darks you then can reuse for processing of all your images. Shoot a new library maybe once per year or two years depending on if you see new hot pixels pop up and you're set.

Third best piece of advise: if you remove the camera from the telescope after each imaging session then FIRST take flats. And in that case ALWAYS take flats. Dust specks move when you remove the camera and it WILL mess up your images at some point in time. If you keep the camera on the telescope then this is less important and you can reuse your (master) flats for a while.


Clear skies, Wouter

I have been doing:

Unity Gain : 139
Exposure: 180s
Offset: ???s
Temp: -5 C

But now that wouter has revealed his settings to us, I might try his

It all depends on your particular astronomical conditions.

Yes it does but I try to handle that by only varying the exposure time

Thanks

Doug

Thank you very much for this information it will be most helpful.

I see you use a temp of 10 degrees Celsius, is there any particular reason for this as a lot of people appear to use from what I've read - 10 to -20 degrees celcius or does it depend on your ambient temperature.

Once ive sorted my equipment out I'll make a dark library as you suggest.

Thanks again

Doug