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INDI Library v2.0.6 is Released (02 Feb 2024)

Bi-monthly release with minor bug fixes and improvements

ASI 2600mc pro: how to set the correct sensor temperature ?

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Paolo,

the cooling temperature is up to 35 degrees below ambient. The important thing IMO is to have reproducible conditions, say -10 degrees C for all images. Accordingly, your dark frames should be taken at -10 degrees, too. If you decide to take lights at other temperatures, you have to take additional sets of dark frames at these temperatures, too. With modern sensors like the one in your 2600 the difference in noise level between -10 and -20 degrees is negligible and not worth the extra effort IMO.
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Last edit: 3 years 9 months ago by Alfred.
3 years 9 months ago #55814

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I agree 100% with Herrhausen. I have been using an ASI1600MM-Pro Cool for about 2 years now and I do exactly that: always cool to -10º and always use the same gain and offset. I have shot a dark library for that for different exposure times so I can always use a master dark of the same exposure time as the lights. For the ASI1600 this is necessary because of the amp glow. Recently I acquired an ASI6200 which has no amp glow so I made one master dark at -10º and use that for all my lights.


Clear skies, Wouter
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3 years 9 months ago #55815

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how do you like the 6200 over the 1600 ?
3 years 9 months ago #55818

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Hi guys,
thanks a lot for your answers!
I really appreciate it.

@wvreeven what kind of gai and offset you are using?
From my asi2600 quick guide is suggested to use the highest dynamic range, this mean that the gain is set to zero.
With gain at zero which is the correct offset?
However always from the quick guide is written that the ASI PRO cameras don't provide offset (and also USB limit) any more.... so I should no need to set the offset... right?

What you says about the master dark is wonderfull, in this way it is very convenient and saves you time during photo session... you will only need to take light frames.
The same thing colud be performed whit bias... with a master bias, right?
Regarding the master dark, the noise is not always distribuited in the same manner over the sensor, so in theory should be better to take the dark frames at the same time of light frames... but at this point I think that with the master dark or using the dark frame per session there is no much more difference in noise reduction, right?

thanks in advance!
Paolo
3 years 9 months ago #55820

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@suvowner: I had some initial problems getting it to work. It requires a USB3 port otherwise it refuses to work. Apart from that, it works really well. Processing the images is quite a challenge since they are HUGE.

@astropaul: I also use gain 0. The offset is not cast in stone in the sense that you need to use a certain offset for a certain gain. I use offset 80. Not sure anymore where I got that number from. It seems to work for me though. I didn't know that ASI PRO cameras don't provide offset anymore though.

As for BIAS, I don't use them. I have read reports that say that BIAS images taken with ASI1600 cannot be trusted because they are not uniform. I use APP for image processing and with that I use a Master DarkFlat to calibrate the Flats and create a Master Flat. Then I use the Master Flat and a Master Dark to calibrate the lights. Again, I have taken DarkFlats at 1, 5 and 10 sec and make sure that my Flats always use any of those exposure times and I am done.


Wouter
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3 years 9 months ago #55822

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@wvreeven thanks again for your answers.
You are using e very short exposure time for your photos, your technique is to make many shot at short time exposure ?
If yes, why do you prefer this metod instead of less photo at long time exposure?
The second metod should grant better quality imge, more dynamic range ... or not?

Paolo
3 years 9 months ago #55823

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OK sorry, I should have been clearer. Those short exposures are for the Flats and DarkFlats. For my Lights I take 30, 60, 120 etc exposures depending on the light pollution, the object and the filter used. For the Lights I use Master Darks with the same exposure time as those Lights when I use the ASI1600. With the ASI6200 I use the same 60 sec Master Dark regardless of the exposure time of the Lights.
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3 years 9 months ago #55825

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Ok wvreeven now is more clear for me :)
Thanks and compliments for your nice photos posted in your profile.

Today will be a clear night without moon, so I'll take my first photos with my new camera... always if will not occur problems.

Paolo
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3 years 9 months ago #55826

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you should almost certainly not use gain 0 with these new Sony sensors, the read noise is much higher at gain 0, but at gain 100 the read noise drops significantly with a slight gain in dynamic range. it is something unique to these Sony sensors, this logic does not apply to the asi1600.

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Last edit: 3 years 9 months ago by Brent.
3 years 9 months ago #55828
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Thanks for pointing that out. I failed to take the bottom diagram into account. I will start using gain 100 from now on. Luckily the lack of amp glow means that I only need to re-shoot one series of dark and that it!
3 years 9 months ago #55829

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@suvowner thanks a lot for your explantion.
So I'll use always gan 100 for better results.

Paolo
3 years 9 months ago #55833

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Using 100 gain is perfect if you're doing short subs where you can't take advantage of full well capacity, and need to image with light pollution.

However, if you have dark skies, and want to do long subs, you're better off at gain 0 so you can use the full well capacity of the sensor. This means you won't saturate bright areas as quickly, like getting blown out stars.
3 years 9 months ago #55849

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