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INDI Library v2.0.7 is Released (01 Apr 2024)

Bi-monthly release with minor bug fixes and improvements

Autofocus with DSLR... subframing possible?

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I am planning to obtain a Moonlite stepper motor for use with Ekos and my Canon 6d, and am having trouble learning whether subframing is possible with a Canon DSLR on Ekos.

I am concerned that the focus module would take forever without subframing, since full FITS files take 30-45 seconds to transfer to my StellarMate.

Thanks!
5 years 3 months ago #33698

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It is supported, but it is not as efficient as a camera that can do it on the hardware level. But from my tests on raw settings you might expect to save yourself a good 10 seconds. I think it makes that up by processing less data in the FITS conversion rather than in transfer rates.

Edit: You can also save time by changing the capture format in INDI control panel to one of the JPG options. *** Just remember to change it back to RAW! ***
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Last edit: 5 years 3 months ago by Andrew.
5 years 3 months ago #33704

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Thanks for the advice, much appreciated! I was unaware that I could use the focus module with jpeg format; that should save a lot of time and make this feasible.

I do wonder: is automatic switching between RAW and JPG possible during in-sequence auto focusing?

Do you think I would be better suited using an OAG and focusing off the guide camera, or would I be buying myself a hassle due to potential small differences in focus between imaging and guiding sensors?

Thanks again for the help on this; would rather sort this out before plunking down cash on something that may not work with my setup :)
5 years 3 months ago #33710

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Automatic switching is not currently possible, but I have been asking for it. So we'll see if it gets on a ToDo list someday. I would highly recommend NOT focusing based off an OAG. After all it's your light frames you truly care about and achieving perfect parfocal is not realistic, nor reliable.
Edit: My two cents. You should consider a bahtinov mask before investing a lot on a moonlight motorized focuser if you are just starting out. A bahtinov mask is cheap, effective and likely faster than the automated routine.
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Last edit: 5 years 3 months ago by Andrew.
5 years 3 months ago #33711

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Sounds like in-sequence DSLR autofocus in EKOS may take more time than it’s worth. I’ve lived in reflector-land the last 3 years and have appreciated infrequently needing to adjust focus, but it seems like my new refractor is going to need more frequent attention until I get a dedicated Astro camera. Thanks for your help!

Following up on your 2 cents: I’ve had my 6 inch reflector/Nikon D3100/AVX/SSAG since the beginning and finally have the means to do a big upgrade, so got a WO Star 71 with Hutech 6D. I figure I’ll get an ASI1600mm (or contemporary equivalent) when the time comes, and am trying to thoughtfully accessorize as I go. I’ve enjoyed automating my setup with StellarMate/EKOS and worked hard on my image processing abilities; been trying to simultaneously tackle new challenges and future proof as I go. Auto focus seemed like a plausible accessory for my new setup that could increase my skill and serve me well in the long term, but perhaps I’m jumping the gun.

If you were where I am now, how would you move forward? I’ve learned from false starts and bad purchases and am always open to suggestions :). Thanks!
5 years 3 months ago #33716

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If you have the means, Go for it! Motorized focusers are great. I've taken DIY approach to motorize old scope. I might do it again for my new RC8 until I can afford better.
5 years 3 months ago #33745

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