Unfortunately the flare vector can't be added to the live view. The other star detection algorithm results are also not available in live view. To make this available requires quite some restructuring of the code to make it work. Maybe it can be submitted as a feature request. But I think the live view was not intended to support this behaviour (but I could be wrong here, as I am quite new to developing to kstars and ekos).
Is it posible to use the Bathinov Assistant without a motorized focuser? How? I've been able to see the assistant working on previous version occasionally, but since I've installed 3.5.2 I haven't been able to get the assistant working.
It's nice to hear that the Bathinov Mask Focus Assistant Tool is used. Here a detailed description on how I use this tool without an auto-focuser.
I don't have an auto-focuser too, so it is definitly possible. The steps are as follows:
Point your telescope to a bright enough star to be able to use your bathinov mask
Place your bathinov mask
Go to the kstars-ekos focus assistant tool
Set the correct exposure time and select detection mode 'Bahtinov'
Take a first shot by clicking the small camera icon next to the stop button to take a single shot
A shot is taken and (only the first time after starting kstars) the message window shows a message to select the star to focus on
Click in the photo on the star that you want to focus on
After you have clicked the star to focus on a new shot is taken automatically and the bathinov pattern recognition is executed and shown as overlay on the photo
Increase the 'box size' so it will contain about 60-80% of the whole bahtinov diffraction pattern. If you choose it too small or too big it will have difficulty detecting the diffraction pattern lines.
Verify that the lines of the bahtinov pattern are overlapping the diffraction pattern in your photo, if this is not the case, increase or decrease the 'number of rows' value and take another photo (the 'number of rows' values is used to in a similar way as binning. it groups several rows of pixels in the image to get a better detection of where the diffraction lines are in the image (higher resolution images or a more bold diffraction pattern required a higher 'number of rows'.
Note the two circles with a line in between in the overlay, they are an amplified graphical representation of the HFR. At the bottom of the focus tool the HFR value is shown
Strive for the smallest HFR possible, preferably less the 1. I usually try to reach values of less then 0.5. Note that an HFR of 0 is almost impossible, that would mean perfect focus, which is hard to do when you are on earth with a thick atmosphere above you
Manually turn your focus knob a little to one direction
Remember the direction, if the focus becomes worse, the next step you need to turn to the other direction
Press the small camera icon to take another photo
The bahtinov pattern recognition overlay is shown and the HFR is updated
See if the HFR value has gone down and the distance between the two circles has become smaller
If the HFR value has gone up, you need to turn the focus knob the other way and repeat the steps starting from step 7
Repeat the steps starting from step 7 until you have reached the smallest HFR value
If you are in focus (reached the smallest HFR), tighten your focus lock screw gentle (if you have one) to prevent your focus from slipping
Take another photo to verify if the focus has not moved when tightening the focus lock screw
if ok, then you are done
if not ok loossen the focus lock screw a little and repeat the steps starting from step 7 to get back in focus
Note 1: Due to for instance atmospherical turbulence the value of HFR can vary from one shot to anoter. So to be more accurate you can take multiple shots to see how stable the HFR value is. I don't know (haven't tried yet) if the 'Average over number of frames' will do the same. If so, that would be a nice feature
Note 2: When you are using manual focus (pressing the capture single shot button) the HFR graph won't be updated. This is also not the case for any other detection method when using the capture single shot button)
Sometime I do want to use the graph, in that case I press the start capture button (button right of the small camera button). That will take photos continuesly, so you have only a very small time to adjust the focus knob. Since I have an old camera which takes about 5 seconds to download a photo, i have about 5 seconds to turn the focus knob. Another alternative to gain extra time with an DSLR is to increase the mirror lock timeout to about 5 seconds. That will flip up the mirror in your DSLR and wait 5 seconds before taking the shot. Unfortunately that won't work for mirror-less cameras.
I hope this description is clear enough. If you have any questions, don't hasitate to ask. Also improvement suggestions are welcome.
There could be several things that went wrong.
First of all, I think you forgot to select the 'Detection method'. That should be Bahtinov. (I know, I forgot to write that in the description. I have just updated it, so it should be there now. See my previous post on this topic in this forum).
Second thing that could be wrong is that the lines in the overlay that the Bahtinov detection method give are not correctly overlapping the diffraction lines in your image. If that is the case, then you need to change the value of the 'number of rows' parameter in the settings. I also added more detail on this in the description.
Third thing is that you can increase the 'box size' so it will contain about 60-80% of the whole bahtinov diffraction pattern. If you choose it too small or too big it will have difficulty detecting the diffraction pattern lines.
When I focus with my bathinov mask, I strive for an HFR of less then 1, peferably as close to zero as possible.
I hope this will help you get you to get razor sharp focus again.
Great tool @Astrorunner. I do the focussing manually and what would really help is if the tool can visually tell me if I have improved or made things worse by turning the knob (perhaps with an arrow pointing UP, Down). If it was in large graphics, its even better as it would be easier to spot from a short distance as you keep moving back & forth from scope to computer screen. Its just a nice to have
Celestron Astromaster 130 on HEQ5 Pro mount, ZWO ASI224mc, 30mm guidescope with ASI120mm mini. All managed using Kstars/Ekos on RPi with Astroberry build.