If we look at the data that Gonzo has provided it shows that the system has connected to the camera and is downloading all the information correctly. It is also able to read images from the camera and display them. That is the sort of thing that involves the USB cable and it all seems OK.

What we see is that the image data that is read from the CCD is incorrect. Sometimes it is blank and sometimes there is partial data - but there is always data. This looks as if the problem is inside the camera, getting data from the CCD. How a USB cable can be involved in this escapes me.

Gonzo, when you get the blank images exactly what does the data look like? Is is always a single value? Or does the histogram show that there is noise in the data? If the data is always one value that may indicate a problem with the ADC but if there's noise then it may be more likely to be between the ADC and the CCD. It's important to know because replacing a circuit board won't help if the problem is actually with the CCD.

I have tried that multiple times already, it's true that all USB cables are not made the same...

I'll Google that USB brand, thanks for the link to your thread, appreciated.

From what I remember from my conversation with Andrew from Atik, the blank image indicates that no data has been sent from the camera (or something like this).
The CCD board can be changed, not that expensive, however the CCD is....

I agree with Chris, the results you posted indicate a problem within the camera. It is clear to me that this is not an Indi/Ekos related issue.

I am coming back to my earlier comment, in which I indicated that the camera is clearly a

Is it really worth spending this much time and energy on an outdated 1.4 MP camera?
Is it really worth even replacing the control board (if that is even the problem) considering the current value of the klunker?
I mean, astrophotography is all about tinkering and solving problems, but where do we draw the line?
My suggestion would be to give it to your son, grandson, nephew, .... for his birthday together with a soldering iron and tell him to fix it.
Thanks to the laws of quantum mechanics, there is a finite chance that he will be successful.

Changing the camera for a Zwo (as an example) would require a lot of work.
Zwo's are USB3 which I do not have on my setup
Any other cameras will have a different backfocus and would require me to review the accessories between the CCD sensor and the flattener...

As much as I agree that it is an ancient camera, the costs of changing it is much greater that you think, in my situation.
I will take it back home, have a think about it and take action.

I haven't tried this extensively with my current Pi4 setup, but my ZWO USB3 cameras had no trouble with my previous Pi3 setup, which is USB2. If you want, I can try tonight how they behave when I plug them into the USB2 ports on my Pi4 and let you know, if that is any help.
Besides, the hub on the ASI1600 and ASI183 are USB2 hubs, which then feed through the main USB3 cable and I am routing my USB3 ZWO guide cam through that USB2 hub, so I don't think that would be a problem, especially when you are using a ZWO like the ASI1600 with a 256MB buffer in the camera. The ZWOs seem to be very tolerant in either direction.

Backfocus readjustment is a different issue, of course, but at some point, you will have to bite the bullet anyway. The ASI1600 will work with 31mm filters down to f4, I believe, so you likely would not have to change the filter wheel setup, only the backfocus.
Happy to help with testing the ZWO USB2 connectivity, if you want.

Jo

That would be much appreciated if you could try your Zwo camera on the USB2 port please.

Backfocus details...

Flat field flattener 55mm (to achieve)

Atik 314L+ 13.1mm
Gerd Neuman drawer 21.9mm
ZWO OAG 16.5 mm
current (Atik+Gerd+OAG) = 51.5mm
to 55mm is made up of thin rings

From what I'm reading the Zwo cameras have 6.5mm back focus which is about half the Atik314

I use my ZWO cameras with both USB2 and USB3 ports without any problems at all.

A shorter distance from the sensor to the outside of the camera (mind, this is NOT called back focus because that is the necessary distance between the flattener and the sensor) is good. You will need to add some rings to make up for the shorter distance to be at the correct back focus distance again.


Wouter

I tested the ASI183 and the ASI1600 on my Pi4 using USB2 connection only. I sent you a PM with a Dropbox link so you can inspect the screenshots and the FITS files.

No problem at all! I would switch out your Atik for one of the ZWOs. They work flawlessly in my hands.