pch wrote: I make some testing today but I cannot find a sure way to reproduce the problem.
After many connection, disconnection, reboot I only get the issue one time. This is strange because at the telescope I get it every time if I connect in the wrong order. Maybe the powered usb hub make a difference in the power sequence? I will try later.
In this case the wheel position show 129, and if you try to set a new position it never finish. You ear the motor to turn a bit, stop, turn again and never finish.
A sure way to get position=129 is to connect the driver before the efw2 as completed it's rotation after power on. But in this case it work when you send a new valid position.
I think I nailed it! I went through deep inspection of starting Atik EFW2 and it looks like position=129 is set when the filter wheel cannot calibrate or set requested position.
Calibration (and number of filter slots detection) is based on hall sensor, which reads markers located on the edge of filters carousel. If any problem (motor locked, carousel stalled etc) occurs electronics sets position to 129.
In my case I found out that rubber ring around carousel was loose and was randomly blocking carousel rotation. During aggressive tests it even happened that the ring just fallen off the carousel making it nonoperational at all!
After gluing the ring to the carousel with just a few droplets of a glue the issue is gone. And startup/calibration procedure is consistently rendering proper results - no 129 and number of filter slots detected is always OK.
BTW. During the inspection I noticed that USB port on PCB of the filter wheel is quite loose. I needed to use some glue and resolder it so it sits still on the PCB.
BTW2. I believe that the rubber ring issue and poor USB port mounting should be considered by ATIK as an improvement for future versions. Not everybody has a solder station and willingness to fix mechanical issues in a commercial product.
Size of a star in any optical system can be calculated as an angular size of Airy disk e.g. for a 8" scope angular size of a star is 0.345 arc sec.
The above is limited by:
- Resolution of a scope calculated according to Dawes' Limit or Rayleigh Limit e.g. for a 8" scope respectively 0.57 or 0.68
- Resolution of a scope + CCD (aka scale) which depends on focal length and pixel size e.g. for 800 mm FL and 4.54 um pixel size it is 1.17 arc sec / pixel
- Seeing, which can vary from below 1 arc sec (exceptional) to 4 arc sec (poor) with average something around 2.5 arc sec.
All these means that for a 8" scope with 800 focal length (f/4) and CCD with pixels of 4.54 um a real star angular size is around 2.5 arc sec, and is spread over 4 pixels (2x2). It will not get better than this for such a setup.
BIN2 will fit a star in a single "virtual pixel" (2x2) at the best. This is perfectly fine because you do not register any subpixel values anyway. BIN3 would lose required resolution (undersampling) and BIN1 would gain additional resolution (oversampling).
In other words if your scope + CCD resolution is above seeing (i.e. > 2.5) you should not use binning, because you lose focusing precision. If it is below seeing (i.e. < 2.5 or even < 1.25) binning will not harm focusing.
For simplicity reasons I skip the fact that focusing is based on FWHM/HFD/HFR ratio, which makes the system more sensitive to resolution. In any case binning is fine as far as a star fits to at least 1 pixel (binned or unbinned).
This is how I see it. Any other views are welcomed.
There are two things:
First, try running
sudo apt dist-upgrade
If it fixes the problem, you're home, if not run:
sudo apt-get -o Dpkg::Options::="--force-overwrite" -f install
Then, you're home. If not, there's some unbelievable circumstance, which needs major diagnosis or reflashing
I don't know about the others but I use bin2 when focusing. Less noise and faster
I meant struggle
Absolutely! Reflash and upgrade the system before further straggle
I have never had a problem with focusing in NB. I use 3-5s exposures for NB filters and it works very well (a bit slow though).
Using focus offset for various filters is a good idea (Ekos CCD tab, click an icon located right of filter wheel drop down). Get focus on L and determine offset using Bahtinov mask for your filters.
@offshore hold your horses please It is the fourth post with exactly the same content you posted on the forum. Two are active, two were moderated and deleted.
What is get is:
Wireless network available Connecting............................... Can't connect to wireless network. Check your password and try again
This means that the AP is present but the password is not correct. It is case sensitive to please triple check this
Run this after reboot (note it does not contain -B flag, which sends it to background):
/sbin/wpa_supplicant -s -P /run/wpa_supplicant.wlan0.pid -i wlan0 -D nl80211,wext -c /etc/wpa_supplicant/wpa_supplicant.conf
Revew the output and/or paste it here.
Birthdate08. 05. 1974
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