$ ps aux | grep indiserver
$ ps aux | grep indi_
$ ps aux | grep indi_
As I use dedicated focusers I can't help you with your specific focuser requirements but there is likely someone in the forum who can provide info.
You can look at this post from Jerry, it links to a document that may help you.
Nice write-up Jerry. Thanks for those who may want to try the ODroid route. One can also consider the newer 4GB ODroid C4 as a smaller (RPI size) and cheaper alternative to the N2/N2+ as, from benchmark, it is somewhat better than the RPI 4.
If I may add my comments (re: ODroid), I would like to add that I am running ODroids N2 and C4 for my 'transportable' observatory and telescope setup. The observatory runs a subset of the INDI suite (Dome Scripting Gateway, Weather Radio, Watchdog, GPS, DIY Flip Flat) on the C4, and the telescope runs the mount, cameras, UPB, astrometry, etc... on the N2, in a distributed INDI setup that I run from inside my house via NoMachine.
A big advantage of the ODroids I use is that they run on 12 volts with standard 5.5/2.1mm power connectors so, no need for voltage converters or special adapters to power them. Both have been working flawlessly, in our cold canadian winter, in < -20°C (-4°F) temperature for many hours, contrary to my RPI based observatory security camera that would not boot when it is -10°C or below. Another plus for the ODroids is that they generate less localized heat that the RPI as they have substantial heatsinks, making heat management one less thing to worry about.
Thanks again, from a "statisfied ODroid customer"
Regarding the new Polar Alignment Scheme and crossing the Meridian, my Avalon M-Zero OBS (with the motorized polar alignment system) went through the procedure without problems as it does not need to flip when it crosses the Meridian. It went from Pollux, across the Meridian, to an area close to the Pleiades, and the correction triangle help me correct in altitude very easily. I have a small problem with the azimuth control so I did not do the correction on it, but being about 20' from the Pole, I can live with that until the -20C changes to a more pleasant temperature so I can try to fix the problem.
Great work, thanks a lot.
I also use a "dark" filter for my darks and bias frames but, IIRC, as a filter is irrelevant for darks/bias as the telescope should be capped, you should select the dark filter via the INDI filter wheel tab prior to taking darks/bias as Ekos does not seem to change filters. That's what I do.
Maybe there should be an option in Ekos to use a dark filter instead of, or in addition to capping the telescope. This would make taking darks more automated for those who do not have an automated cap such as the Alnitak or similar.
Thanks for the great tutorial.
I have started reading it and it will likely help a lot if one wants to add functionality to a driver, or develop a new driver either from scratch or from an existing one.
Sorry I did not reply to your previous message, with the COVID and my aging mother, the Christmas Holidays were a bit more ectic; but that's not our subject here. As far as the weather, we had mild and cloudy/rainy weather and on the only clear day, transparency was lousy so, no good astrophotography.
To answer your questions,
1) Roof control from KStars/Ekos/INDI: the roof can be unparked and parked from the buttons available with each application (dome conrtol in KStars, INDI dome driver tab, etc...). It even works, as it should, with the Weather Radio/Watchdog driver pair if weather is inclement.
2) Limit switches: I use a relay board that has four 10 amps relay outputs as well as four digital inputs (Tinysine TSIR04) and I modified the orifginal python script used to only drive relays, so it can now read the digital inputs. Those relay boards with inputs seem to be less used than the relay-only boards (Tinysine and Devantech make one). On a Raspberry PI or an ODroid (which I use), one could use GPIO pins to drive the relays as well as read the state of the limit switches; that would save some space as well as a USB port. I haven't looked into using the GPIO pins from my ODroid as I wasn't aware, at the time, that they could be used with Linux. I will likely consider using GPIO in a future version of the control electronics for the observatory, though.
Let me know if you have any more questions.
Wishing you all a wonderful COVID-free and cloud-free 2021!
Back home and I am sending you the Python scripts I use for my roof. As mentioned earlier, I use a USB relay board made by Tinysine, the TSIR04, so the scripts are written to be used with a series of Python tools available on github as: github.com/amorphic/tosr0x
Of all the scripts in the RoofScripts.tgz file I send, only connect.py, park.py, unpark.py and disconnect.py are used. I have put comments in the Python scripts and they should be easy to follow. If you have questions, don't hesitate to let me know. The scripts normally go in the "/usr/share/indi/scripts/" folder but you can change the location in the 'Options' tab of the "Dome Scripting Gateway" driver.
Have you considered the INDI "Weather Radio" weather subsystem and driver? It's based on the Meteostation and was developped by Wolfgang Reissenberger. If you use recent sensors with your Meteostation (i.e. BME280, TSL2591 and MLX90614 sensors) it should be compatible with Weather Radio with minimal, if any, changes. Weather Radio also supports the Davis Anemometer which may (or may not) work similarly as the one you are considering. The Davis wind speed sensor sends a pulse once every rotation, so speed is calculated as number of pulses per unit of time.
Weather Radio is meant to be run on an Arduino type controller (Arduino, Wemos D1...) and can connect via USB serial and/or WiFi. There is also a web server that can provide you weather info for periods of 6 hours to 30 days.
More info available at: github.com/indilib/indi-3rdparty/blob/ma...adme-WeatherRadio.md
I can't answer all of your questions now as I am not home, where the scripts are, but the reason why I used external limit switches is because here in Canada the weather can go to extremes and, as the cold weather and potential snow or solidified freezing rain slows down the linear actuator and makes it work harder, I want to be certain that the roof is fully opened (or closed) before unparking the scope. My roof not being a roll-off but rather a clamshell like the weight is a factor. I'll send a picture of it later, when I get home.
I do not recall having to write the connect script but I will provide you with the info I have.