Yep, that was it, the Mount tab in Ekos. Saves me a lot of work repairing FITS headers!
You know, I was just thinking, I tried to engage tracking from INDO control panel. Tonight I will try from the Ekos mount tab.
I'll take a look at it again. Last night I am 99.9% positive I did that but still the simulator was very eager to switch off tracking after a plate solve.
Quick background: I don't have a go-to mount but I use KStars/Ekos to visualize where the scope is pointing after a plate solve using Telescope Simulator.
The telescope simulator's icon (bull's eye with cross hairs) syncs after a plate solve but then immediately starts drifting eastward. To stop it I have to click on KStar's menu: Pointing -> Engage Tracking. The annoying thing is I have to Engage Tracking quite a lot. I tried INDI control panel settings but found nothing there that had any effect. There could be some setting in KStars that I am unaware of.
So this was just a minor annoyance until recently when I began doing photometry where AIRMASS (in the FITS header) is important.
I just discovered that when Ekos captures a frame it writes these keywords in the FITS header: OBJCTRA, OBJCTDEC, RA, DEC, and AIRMASS. The problem is that the values are coming from the Telescope Simulator, not the last Plate Solve! That means that if I don't engage tracking in KStars and then start a 10 frame capture sequence, the position of the object changes with each new frame.
Is there a way to permanently turn on tracking?
To be honest I do not use vappasswd and vaprename anymore. Now I directly edit /etc/hostapd/hostapd_3bplus.conf.
It looks to me like you did everything correctly. I use hw_mode=g, channel=6. I connect to RasPi using Linux laptop Ubuntu 16.04. I have not tested it with a mobile phone.
Perhaps you can try connecting with your laptop over WiFi?
I'm sure I am in the minority here but I have low vision. The last I looked through a scope was 40 years ago, back when my vision was a bit better.
Having said that I find KStars to be very difficult on my eyes. The stars are tiny and there is not much differentiation between bright stars and faint ones. In my opinion it looks nothing like what my CCD delivers where star disc size varies significantly with magnitude.
To the best of my ability I've looked through all options in KStars but I can't get the same experience as I do with C2A which unfortunately is Windows-only.
"Star Profile" looks cool but since I am running the client and server on RPi 3B+ and remoting in over VAP, it looks like it uses quite a lot of CPU.
What I'll do instead is use AstroImageJ from my laptop to grab a 4MB FITS file from the Pi's Picture folder using SMB. It'll be faster.
Hmm, I've got three installations of KStars:
1. Astroberry KStars 2.9.8, KDE 5.18.0
2. Ubuntu KStars 3.2.3, KDE 5.18.0
3. Windows KStars 3.0.0, KDE 5.52.0
The toolbar option you describe is only available on Windows (#3)
Is there a way to draw a box around a star in order to read the peak pixel value? Right now, I have to zoom in greatly and sweep the "finger" over each pixel to sample it.
I have similar equipment: William Optics 71 f/5.9 and Altair 290M.
With my Bortle 5 skies I regularly use 60s exposure in Luminance.
If you have Bortle 4 skies then I would recommend 120s exposure or more.
Keep your gain low. Use an Offset of 30. Does ZWO give you access to Offset anymore?
There is no harm in taking longer exposures except that more stars enter saturation.
The benefit is that you increase the SNR of everything including faint nebulosity just above the level of sky glow.
It is a trade-off.
The problem with the 290 is that it doesn't have a very deep well, only about 7000 electrons. That means it is difficult to get accurate star colors over a wide range of magnitudes. Also, the 290 is not cooled as you mentioned. This is especially problematic with summertime temperatures. I highly recommend that you capture darks BEFORE lights.
I recently purchased an Atik 314E. It is 10-year old technology but I get far superior results. Cooling but not set-point.
I've been paying $19.95 in single quantities for a SanDisk Ultra 16GB class 10 card.
I can get 8-10 all-nighters on a card before it turns Slim-Shady on me.
Does anyone know of a supplier or similar card for perhaps half the price?
I am loathe to buy anything on Amazon.