One of the issues you will run into using the process as it's typically done in an indi driver, is that these drivers are set up for typical long exposure astro work. With most ccd's there are a few steps done to 'prepare' the chip for an exposure. It's normal to flush the ccd right before starting an exposure to ensure it's a 'clean start'. With some cameras, there is an RBI pre-flash, so the infrared led will be turned on and chip exposed to infrared long enough to saturate, then it'll be read out twice to 'flush' the ccd, before opening the shutter and starting the actual exposure.
The other thing is, typical ccd's are read out very slowly to reduce noise. If you have a full frame ccd, ie not an interline, how short your exposure can be is limited by the speed of the shutter. With an interline ccd, you can go as short as you want, depending on the in camera firmware, but frame readout time will be substantial if you are reading out the whole frame. If I use the example of my sbig ST-10, readout times are on the order of 10 seconds. Using my sxv-h9, readout time is much shorter, but still on the order of seconds, not microseconds. The h9 is an interline ccd, so it is possible to do the extremely short exposure, it's just not possible to stack them instantly back to back because the ccd is not read out that quickly. I can get very short exposures with the h9. but only at a very low cadence. Cadence could be increased dramatically by only reading out a small portion of the frame.
I played with this concept a bit a few years ago, in my case I was trying to quantify seeing, using an sxv-h9 mounted in a C8. I had it pointed at the alcor / mizar pair, and took very short exposures, on the order of 10 ms, then saved them all away. I was using them later to fuss with some software to make measurements and a simulation on how a tip/tilt could be used to try improve images by 'chasing the seeing' with the tip/tilt at it's maximum deflection rates. My conclusion tho said it was a pointless exercise for a number of reasons. The deal breaker, seeing was affecting the two stars quite differently at any given instant, so if I got a perfect match on alcor, then the mizar image would balloon up in fwhm. I tested this by stacking them all using one star as the reference point, and looking at what happened to the other. But, my images were not back to back, they were short exposures at a little over 1 second intervals due to camera readout speeds. but, the data from that run was conclusive, and answered my question. Seeing is NOT consistent across the frame on short intervals, so, bumping a tip/tilt can dramatically improve things in the near vicinity of the guide star, but at the expense of resolution on the rest of the frame. The other deal breaker, no camera I could find at the time was capable of delivering the high cadence frames at the sensativity required to accomplish this. Unless there is a mag 2 or 3 type star to use as the guide star, you aren't going to get enough data in millisecond exposures to reliably drive a tip/tilt with cameras available to us today. there just isn't enough data available
To do what you are considering, you will have to quantify exactly what it is you want to accomplish in terms of frame duration, and frame cadence. Once you have a threshold value set for the minimum cadence on successive frames, then the trick is to find a camera that can deliver the data on that cadence. Most astro ccd's will not be able to do it. Once you have a camera selected that can achieve the cadence you want, then a driver has to be written for that camera. I doubt any of the current camera drivers can achieve a high cadence, and many of them are for cameras that are phyisically not capable of getting high cadence.
Off the top of my head, I'm not sure where to look for a suitable camera for this project. I wonder if the stuff that is used these days for high resolution jupiter shots would be appropriate, ie, are they sensative enough for your application ? That really depends on how bright the stars are you are targetting with this approach. If they are in the magnitude ranges of 0 to 5, then I think it's all doable, but if you are talking about going after stars in the mag 10+ range, that's a whole different kettle of fish. I know in my case, using an 8 inch f/10 instrument, those dim stars dont even start to resolve well until exposure time is reaching into the multiple seconds range. I haven't had a chance to do this kind of testing with our newer / larger telescope (12 inch f5.6 with reducer in).