Magnus replied to the topic 'DIY Flatfield Dustcover with RPi' in the forum. 2 days ago

I'm not 100% sure, but at the drawing of circle one I see one thing that can possibly be the reason.

The pivot point is not at the point where the angle for the lid arm is. Looks to be half a cm or so offset up to the hole for the link.

Thats the great thing with 3d printing. If first prototype is off, then try again :)


Magnus replied to the topic 'DIY Flatfield Dustcover with RPi' in the forum. 2 days ago

If you change circle one so it has a smaller radius than circle two, you will get more range, but loose some lifting force.


Magnus replied to the topic 'DIY Flatfield Dustcover with RPi' in the forum. 2 days ago

hy-fye1 wrote: Hi Pauledd,
the servod isn't running. How can I do this? There nothing stand in the tutorial.


Hi. In the tutorial point 5.2 explanes how to install servoblaster
$ cd ~/Projects
$ git clone
$ cd PiBits/ServoBlaster/user/
$ sudo make servod
$ // Follow instructions on screen to add the init script and start servoblaster service (servod)


In the youtube video, it looks like you are not using all of the servos travel? perhaps around 80 or 70%?
It looks like you stop the servo travel early at the closed position, so the servo horn does not hit the hinge?

Try using the outer hole for the servo to cap link that you have made. Then reposition the anodized servo horn so it can close the lid with some force, and without extencive binding. It's ok if it slightly binds.

On the picture with the mounting point for the lid, with the circle and question mark.
If you want the lid to have more range. (Now it opens and closes 90 degrees). Then you can make the mount point closer to the pivit point.

If you visualize the circumference of the circle made by the center / pivit point, and the linkage mount point. Then a large circle has the most tourqe, and a smaller circle will have more speed, and in ths case a greater range. (The circumference will be shorter, and the servo will still move the linkage the same length, so the lid will be rotated further around the pivit point).

Hope this makes sense. It's a cool project, and I'm envious of the built in flatlight.
I think next summers upgrades for me will be finnaly mounting the wall mounted flat light :)


Magnus thanked Jasem Mutlaq in topic Fake QHY_CCD abort 2 weeks ago
Magnus replied to the topic 'Fake QHY_CCD abort' in the forum. 2 weeks ago

That is true, however 1) does occure quite often.

1) Occurs if main ccd has finished exposure, and is set to dither guide cam. The guide cam (qhy_ccd) aborts exposiure, starts dithering, and resumes guiding.
1) Occurs if filter is changed, and KStars is set to focus on filter change + focuser is set to 'stop guiding while focusing'.

There are also other cases.
If guiding has a random fail 'looses track of guide star'. Then I will have to wait for the entire calibration fails after xx iterations. If I try to stop the calibration process, then exposiure is aborted, and qhy_ccd trhows the error, and I have to reboot server.

I do not have a recent log, but Ill re post the old one from the first post I made about this.
It shows clearly that after the first exposiure aborted, the error occures.

2016-12-18T20:17:59: QHY CCD QHY5-0-M-: GetQHYCCDSingleFrame error (-1)

Hope this makes sense. I'll try to get new logs if I get some clear weather soon. Or I will try to start the Orion SSAG with Gude Star Catalouge, to se if I can reproduce in testing.


Magnus created a new topic ' Fake QHY_CCD abort' in the forum. 2 weeks ago

This is related to this post, that was unanswered until forgotten.

So the issue I'm having, now that I successfully can guide with indi_qhy_ccd and Orion SSAG, is the following.

If for any reason a exposure is aborted the driver crashes. "qhy get singleframe exposiure (-1)" or something similar.
In the wost case I have to disconnect Ekos and reboot my odroid, witch means there is no chanse for automation.

Ekos actually uses Abort exposiure for the guider quite often. When a sub is completed and dithering starts, when autofocus betwean subs start, and so on..

So heres the bugfix 'hack'.
What if I reimplement the abort button in the qhy driver to either sleep or do a timechecked loop for 4 seconds, then return 'abort success'?
I was thinking of just removing the function, but I figure abort exposure is something Ekos assumes is implemented.
I would newer use as mutch, or more than 4sec guide exposures, so in any case the exposiure is completed within 4 secons, and essentially the exposiures has been aborted.

So with the weather her in Norway this winter 'A LOT OF SNOW!*, I don't want to try this if it takes away from imaging time. And whent it's not snowing, I want to be imagnig.

So does it sound like the hack above would work? Using sleep is usually not god practice, but I guess any code that uses the abort function will wait for success, so should be good?

BTW. using the setting 'Auto Treshold', Guider QHY_CCD, Via Celestron gps Combined with great polar aligment, the Orion SSAG does finnaly calibrate with two axies enabled :)


Magnus replied to the topic 'Building the induino MeteoStation with 3d printed housing' in the forum. 2 weeks ago

Hi Kalda. I see there was a typo in my last post. You will need ./


@reboot yourUserName cd /home/yourUserName/meteostationWEB/ && ./

For the issue with the graph. It looks like it has skipped a few datapoints makin the line of the graph open. This results in the bottom half not being filled in.
One fix is to stop meteostationWEB delete everything in meteostationWEB/html/CHART

cd /home/yourUserName/meteostationWEB
rm -rf html/CHART/*
./ # Or just reboot, if you have the startup scripts running.

This will clear all charts, and start over on a fresh page. (You will loose the week+ of data you have)

Sorry that I'm slow to help. My MeteoStation has some connection issues, and as it's remote, I cannot really debug....

Waiting on some single cored wires, so I can sodder all sensors to my GeekCreit Arduino Nano v3 from Banggood. (Three of those was cheaper than one Adafruit Trinket PRO bought locally).
Ive printet a new case with the newest versions of the files, and it looks even cleaner than the old one :)
When I get the bugs ironed out, ill install the new one to my obsy.


Magnus replied to the topic '[SOLVED] Commit (5 and 20) days aago breaks Celestron AVX' in the forum. 3 weeks ago

Just want to report that all is good again :)

I'm having some issues with parking, but I think its the Celestron AVX's settings for imaging past the meridian that's acting up.

All the issues I where having with the update is back in order :)


Magnus replied to the topic 'Building the induino MeteoStation with 3d printed housing' in the forum. 3 weeks ago

2. I do not start automatically at startup. I've already tried all the syntax. The readme is written :

I think that is for older ubuntu systems. You could make a meteostationWEB.service and enable it.

However I think the easyest way is to use cron.

Create a file in /etc/cron.d with the followin content

@reboot yourUserName cd /home/yourUserName/meteostationWEB/ &&

I usually make symlinks to apps in my home directory in /srv . That way I can swap versions by changing the symlink, and not worry about paths changing.
sudo ln -s /home/yourUserName/meteostationWEB /srv/meteostationWEB
(If you get a error with no directory named /srv/meteostationWEB then swap places for dir and symlink. I often get those swapped on the first try)

Then change the cron file to
@reboot yourUserName cd /srv/meteostationWEB/ &&


Magnus replied to the topic 'Building the induino MeteoStation with 3d printed housing' in the forum. 1 month ago

Gonzothegreat wrote: it's here, I have my 3D printer. It's amazing !!!


Upload some pictures of the printer and meteostation when some prints done.


Magnus replied to the topic 'Building the induino MeteoStation with 3d printed housing' in the forum. 2 months ago

Now thats a nize looking printer.

It has many nice features. Heated bed, auto bed leveling and more.
Even with a smaller print volume i think it would be able to print atleast 95% of the prints I have ever printed on the mk2.

A large build volume is great when you need it, but you rarely need it to be honest.
Als. If you want to print with filaments that require hig + stable ambient temperature, it would be easy to make an enclosure.

Heres some of my other printed astronomy equipment. I printed my guide scope tube rings and dovetail clamps.
Ive got a lot better guiding this year than with my orion miniguider with aluminium fasteners last year.
Have not notices any flex at all. Printer cabinet Dovetail clamps ST80 piggyback rings


Magnus replied to the topic 'Building the induino MeteoStation with 3d printed housing' in the forum. 2 months ago

I would go for the mk3 if I vere buing one now.
It has some new features that makes it top the mk2s, and on top of that it's a lot quiter from what ive heard.

I get no result on ebay for 381180859843, bug I'll do a search.

Not sure that I actually need it for this project, but it would be nice to have on hand.



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