I now use a 12-to-5V DC converter (and a USB-C charging cable) to power the RPi 4 from a Pegasus Powerbox (which is attached to the telescope dovetail). No need for a dedicated RPi power supply.
Very convenient, I only have a quite thin 12V power cable made of silicon connected to the gear. Not much that mechanically disturbs the guiding.
Here's a link to the DC converter
Thank for this RPI4B guide with StellarMate. I appreciated the pictures. As I reviewed aliljenb’s picture, I tried this with my setup. I abandoned this design because of moments of inertia, radius of gyration, and center of gravity issues. I had a counterweight on the Vixen rail and still could not keep the motors from overworking.
I just picked up an 8G RPI4B. I like the idea of SSD use. I also like the idea of the OTA becoming the carrier. Not getting tangled up is the goal. I distribute my USB load between 2 4 port powered USB.
My first question is “How easy is this setup to achieve CG in X-Y-Z?
My my second question is “What is the total weight of this package with all of its components?”
Thank you for this guide. I will be reviewing its recommendations. Last night was beautiful, cool and dark. I just went from a 4G to 8G RPI4B with the new StellarMate installed on 120G SSD. StellarMate is very inviting from the WEB. Setting up my rig looked easy. I kept it very simple. I didn’t push my configuration to take in more items. One OTA, GPSD, joystick, and QHYCCD.
I had several problems of my own making. I didn’t setup fully by this guide. Thank you again for this guide.
I am at the latest update and current revision. GPSD works wonderfully. StellarMate asks if I want to use it for time keeping. Cool. I will use this guide in establishing location.
In the past, (AstroHub, AstroBerry, and StellarMate), I always went to the OS under VNC to set the OS location, time, and the TTYACM dance with my gear. Udevadm is my friend. Under the Web interface, creating a config was not possible. Creating a saved profile was not possible.
When I went to the OS, all that work was not remembered. No profiles were created. KSTARS web was running. KSTARS and INDI OS knew nothing about the web except it was running. No web profiles were created despite clicking saved. OS KSTARS complained about “ no telescope config found”. In KSTARS OS, Devices is the singular place with establishing configuration. It’s state had 0 configs. No problem, I can use this guide to establish saved profiles. I will look at INDI logs to see if this is a permissions issue.
3. Bare bones screen and updates
Under Indiweb, SM said, updates were needed to be installed. I click on “yes”. The download was said to be successful. Silence. ATAPI and another app were options to install. They downloaded and installed as submitted. Cool. Under VNC, I used APT-GET to update.
StellarMate application works well from iOS. I have an antenna and the rest of my gear to setup. Thank you again for this guide.
I use Stellarmate on a RPi4 4Go. I built myself a little powerbox, with 5V-5A for the RPI4. The OS tells me the power is not enough power!
I try with an external power 5V-3A specially for RPI4 and I have the same message.
If I remember correctly, I used ApplePiBaker (on OS X) to make a backup of the SD card as a image/or zip file on the mac and then ran it again to copy from the backup and install on the SSD (wiping it out completely is part of the process). I plugged in the SSD into the RPi4, removed the SD card, and powered the RPi4 up.
There is equivalent software on Windows, but I've forgotten the name.
120 MM Skywatcher Esprit on Celestron CGX, ZWO ASI 224MC guiding, Pegasus FocusCube v2+PPBA
Nikon Z7 8256 x 5504, 35.9 x 23.9mm 4.34 um. Triad Ultra Quad NB Filter
1) Odroid-N2 Ubuntu-mate 20.04.4 2) StellarMate RPI4 8G
The good, the bad, the ugly at sciencedowneast.no-ip.ca/zenphoto/
The warning message is useful, because the Raspberry Pi throttles down when it does not get enough power which will affect the speed and responsiveness.
I had a similar problem using a battery instead of a power supply. The battery I bought only outputs 2A over the USB port, so I was ready to exchange it for a stronger one. I did some more experimentation and it turned out to be the USB cable connecting the battery to the Raspberry Pi. Maybe try to exchange the USB cable to another one you have or get a new high quality USB cable. Anker cables are usually good.