You shouldn't thing in terms of '35 mm equivalent'. It only describes the field of view equivalent, not the viewing angle per pixel.
Do the calculation: What is the angle per pixel?
But it still could be an interesting cheap guide cam. Just need a old Thorlabs 160 mm 2" doublet for example. 3D print the housing and off you go.
I have designed a 50 mm guide scope with a Thorlabs 200 mm doublet using my 3D printer, some lathe-work and a piece of carbon fiber from e-bay. It works superb!
Super light weight at only 200 grams -including the Touptek IMX290 camera-, yet is as good as a-thermal and can be well focused.
This currently can't be done from the sequence.
What is a good solution is to generate a sequence (for example R, G, B or an U, B, V, R, I) and run this in the scheduler consecutively with an end-time, a number of runs or as I use it, the twilight as terminator.
An advantage (that I could come up with) of this would be that you can generate wacky sequences such as RRR, GGG, BBB or a weird combination of it like RRR, GG, BBBB.
I found it awkward to work with the sequencer at first, but now I almost exclusively with it.
It works very well at my computer, no other programs necessary.
Just download and install.
My apologies, i'm not trying to offend anyone here. I definately value the hard work that went into it and have proposed I can help development myself (but got no response).
But for me and two others at the astronomy club it has mainly been lessons in frustration management.
I have paid for the software (first second hand, and when it turned out that version couldn't be upgraded, I bought a new licence) also I got no response on an email and website chat on the first license.
I have lost many nights of imaging already because I was trying to get Ekos working properly. I have an older type of mount (iEQ45) the driver for it does unexplainable things...
And still I continue to use it and helping my friend at the astronomy club to get his stellarmate working properly. So take that as a compliment.
But I still think the internal guider isn't very good. Why does Phd2 work instantly and with no issues while I spend serious effort in getting the internal guider to work with bad result.
It's just very frustrating to me, ok?
It shouldn't matter.
I've heard many people complain about the internal guider now, including myself and a colleague of me, also a tech-savvy guy.
The internal guider is **** (I'm sorry, I'm not going to be polite about it), except for a few cases where it works as intended. Best is to use PHD2, the interaction between Ekos and Phd2 is good.
It is possible if you have a camera with non-destructive readout.
We don't have that.
Think of it like this: If you have short enough exposure times that you - can- guide with your imaging camera, you -don't have to-, because the tracking error would be negligible in that case.
Best is to simply get a guide scope or off-axis guiding. Personally, I prefer a separate, light weight guide scope, because it's more light sensitive and it prevents issues with vignetting on the imaging camera. Also I already have a lot of weight on the focuser.
I have used ToupTek camera's (GPCMOS2000 and GCMOS1200) succesfully on Stellarmate with EKOS, no problems. They also work great with PHD2.
So if your camera is ToupTek driver compatible, I don't expect issues. I haven't used the 1600 specifically though.
So, is the position of the guide star redefined after a dither is completed? That would be weird... I'd say a guide star is acquired when a sequence is started and dithering lets the guide star 'around' this position, but the average stays at this initial position.
I'm going to understand (at least) this part of the code. First thing in the morning, with coffee.
In principle it shouldn't drift away if you are using guiding, right??
Currently my mount is disassembled in order to replace some bearings after I have lapped the worm and upgraded the belt and some springs.
I could try connecting all electronics, attach it to Stellarmate, and hope it doesn't require the index pulse from the RA worm, because that's not going to be synchronized now.
So, logs maybe this weekend.
It's also a bit weird that the zero position in the mount is overwritten by Stellarmate at the same position as the park position. That also gets overwritten.
I start the night with the counterweight pointing down and the telescope toward NCP. After a night of imaging, the telescope is parked. Dec is pointing to NCP pretty well, but the RA axis is a bit off from where I started it before imaging. I guess this has to do with time in the controller and time in Stellarmate. Something I found peculiar, but wasn't too bad.
According to INDI drivers there is only one driver that fits (exactly) my mount & hand controller, so I recon this should work properly.
Selecting the option 'Mount updates Kstars' doesn't work for me.
I have a iOptron iEQ45 (non pro) and i've replaced the GPS for a new one. On the mount, the GPS works flawless. But it doesn't get updated to Kstars or EKOS.
What is going on?
Of course I could buy a separate USB GPS thing, but that's another USB port occupied and another piece of 'I technically don't need that' on the telescope. I bought Stellarmate (also) to prevent many cables. I even upgraded my mount to have serial communication over Bluetooth, which I must say, I'm surprised by how well and stable that works!
I have other issues with my setup as well, for example the Mount doesn't slew with Polar Alignmount and things like the zero position gets over-written (also the Park position.
So, is the mount just to old to 'normally' communicate with it? Is the HC8406 driver incomplete? Should I buy a 8407 hand controller? Should I buy another mount? I hope not, they are not priced like sandwiches...
Thanks for your thoughts!
I'm sorry if I sound bitter, it don't mean to be offensive in any way, it's just that the system keeps being troublesome.
I will try to reproduce while having logging switched on!