Download the backup from where, though? I honestly don't know where it goes! I also don't actually have an SD card in the thing anymore.

Unfortunately the router thing is a nonstarter for me, since I work in the field so often. I mean, yeah, they probably run off a 12V wall-wart so I could just run one more cable from my battery, but that battery is also running a lot of other things these days!

That's why plugging a cable straight from the computer into the Pi is attractive.

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Using the control panel (:3000), I can select "Direct Ethernet" as a networking option. Currently my SM (1.5.8) is set up to use a WiFi network if available, or stand up its hotspot if not.

I would like to make use of the direct ethernet option, but I'm a little concerned about the results if I push the button and then fail to connect for some reason. I can of course plug the Pi into a display, keyboard, and mouse to get access to the desktop, but how would I unroll the direct ethernet setting from there?

I would like to have all three options available, although I certainly don't need them simultaneously. But a little more direction on going back and forth would be most welcome.

Also, I pushed the "Backup" button on the control panel, expecting to see a dialog appear, but of course it just merrily went ahead and did a backup. To...where? My Pi boots off an external SSD, if that helps.

Thanks for your help!

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Huh. Thanks. I invariably plate solve to point to my target...wonder what's going sideways then?

And yes, that was what I was asking.

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I know I've had this set up before, because I can remember clicking the "equatorial gridlines" button in FITS viewer and having them come up.

But I can't  remember how I made it do it!

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Thanks Andrew! I also got guidance on Cloudy Nights to the correct page to get the numbers, but missed the crucial point that PHD wants the rates per hour, not per minute!

So you saved me some serious head-scratching and potentially bad language.

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Hey all, I'm casting about for a variety of targets to image with my new-to-me Astro-Tech AT8RC. Since I'm using an OAG I won't be able to guide on the comet itself. PHD2 can accept tracking rates in RA and DEC and apply those as a correction to its guiding ( openphdguiding.org/man-dev/Tools.htm#Comet_Tracking ), but ya gotta have the rates to do it.  I can get a line from the Minor Planets Center that looks like this for C/2019 L3, but there are no headers to say which number is which:    CK19L030  2022 01  9.6198  3.554511  1.001620  171.6106  290.7902   48.3610  20220201   4.5  4.0  C/2019 L3 (ATLAS)                                        MPEC 2022-A21

The  PHD manual says Cartes du Ciel can send the tracking rates to PHD; can Ekos, by any chance?

Thx

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With the caveat that I'm using StellarMate, not Astroberry, I certainly never see a 256-bit histogram. In the camera tab on the INDI Control Panel, is there an option for 8-bit vs. 16-bit images? For a long time my Pi kept defaulting to 8-bit and my images suffered terribly because of that! Dunno how the CR2 and FITS work together but the FITS off my ASI183, a 14-bit camera, are always 16-bit.

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Definitely concur. The Pi 4 plate-solves in seconds, which was always the bete noir of Ekos on the Pi 3 for me. I work in the field often and it's a real comfort to know that my sequencing doesn't depend on my laptop battery, or for that matter on me not pulling a USB cable when I'm using the laptop. In fact, unless it's cold I usually get through a session even with my Mac's old battery. And if that dies, I can connect with an iPad. Or if *that* dies, with a phone!

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Sorry I didn't see your question before. More often than anything else, I change the folder the subs are saved to. And I seem to frequently find myself messing with the exact mix of exposure time and # of subs, though the latter is easy to control per rbarberac's suggestion. So if I created a sheaf of sequences for single filter-exposure-gain combos, I guess I could combine 'em in the scheduler. Interleaving filters would make it more complicated, of course.

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Rick Wayne created a new topic ' Combining autofocus and offsets' in the forum. 6 months ago

Just double-checking that I've got this right. I'd like to expedite my LRGB acquisition, interleaving the subs for each channel more to ensure that, on a given night, I wind up with roughly equivalent integration time on each. So the strategy is:

  1. Autofocus Luminance. Note the position. Repeat for R,  G, and B.
  2. From the Filter drop-down, check "autofocus" for Luminance.  For the other three channels, uncheck "autofocus" enter the difference between L and each other channel as "offset".
  3. Start my acquisition session with Luminance, and thus autofocus.
  4. When the filter switches, the offset should be applied to get it pretty close to perfect focus.
I figure that if the L is spot-on, I don't have to be OCD about RGB, since the eye picks up detail mostly in luminance. Without pausing to autofocus R, G, and B, it costs me very little imaging time to switch filters, and so I can afford to do so much more often. If I run, say, 25 L and 5 each RGB, I'm autofocusing every 20 minutes with my customary 30-second exposures for star color, so when the clouds roll in I'll have a balanced set of data. (Or is it better to set them all to "offset" with L=0, focus initially with L, and just tell Ekos to refocus every N minutes?)

This would be especially helpful for mosaics; since slewing and solving is so quick on the Pi 4, I might even extend the technique to cycle repeatedly around the whole mosaic FOV instead of doing one bit at a time and dealing with the subsequent background normalization and other problems between panels.

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I know that others have had success running the Ekos focus module with other Canons (e.g. the 650D). There is apparently a camera-menu setting to select the button on the rear of the camera to do AF instead of the shutter button, it won't work without that. Other than that, sorry, can't be much help.

The way this works is to give INDI control of the focus in/out, and then the Ekos focus module runs it. That module is of course purpose-built to focus stars on a dark background via the half-flux radius (HFR) metric; the camera's built-in focus software isn't intended for astro and is hopelessly incapable.

Sorry that I don't know much more about it than that.

As for platforms, I have run on Mac OS a bit and extensively on a Pi 3B and 4B with StellarMate OS; offhand I don't recall what distro Jasem bases SM on, it used to be Ubuntu but it's one of the Debian ones now (much better overall). StellarMate OS will cost you $50 but is usually quite stable and well-maintained, along with direct support from the vendor. It also offers a mobile-device app in the same vein as ASIAir's. I have had the occasional hang or crash on all platforms, as with just about any software that talks to hardware. But on the Pi 4B running StellarMate OS, that happens only occasionally, and usually when I'm doing something like repeatedly pausing, stopping, and restarting a running sequence.

I really like running it on the Pi because:
* There isn't a cable from my computer to the scope
* The Pi sips power, so can easily run all night off the same battery powering my mount and camera
* I can mount the Pi on either the scope or the tripod
* I can use a laptop, tablet, or phone to run the interface, and if one runs out of battery I can just pick up the next one without interrupting the session
* Connecting is very flexible -- the Pi will connect to my home wifi, an Ethernet cable, or put up a hotspot when I'm in the field

This pretty much ticks all the boxes for me. I found StellarMate OS to be much simpler to set up and get running right out of the box, so the $50 was well worth it to me, especially given the regular updates and new features that appear on the platform promptly when they're put into Ekos.

Setting up to boot the Pi off a USB 3.0 SSD drive (StellarMate has a utility for this) significantly improved performance, well worth doing IMO.

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What I do is create the sequence on the simulator, then open the .esq file in a text editor. Pretty simple XML format, so it ain't hard to change things without mucking anything up too badly. I know that's perhaps not as smooth a user interface as one might like, but it gets me moving forward. I've even done the same with .esl schedule files.

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