To be honest: at the moment I really hesitate to update my system (Mele 3Q, Ubuntu 22.04, using Jases ppa)... There are some threats that items (e.g focuser) are not working and so on, seem to be related on the change to INDI 2.0.0. Since the clear sky nights are extremely rare that time, I will stay on 3.6.2...
Or can anyone can take my fear away 
I'm using SW EQ6 and EQ8, QHY268C main cam, Asi290 guiding cam, mainly pegasus focus cube/DMFC focuser, one asi focuser, Mbox
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Hi Sonny,
thank you for your tip. It worked.
But perhaps it would be better if it works from the beginning 
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Hi,
till now I didn't had big problems with the optical trains. But now I stumbled over the following:
to test my collimation I wanted to get pictures with my QHY 268c. Since the scope is not on the mount I decided to create a profile with telescope simulator and the QHY as Camera 1. The INDI control panel showed both the mount sim and tha camera. But when I tried to get a picture the Train selector was empty and also the button to get the optical train list was greyed out. I also tried to add my guiding cam (which was also shown up in the INDI panel) but same result.
When selecting my standard "newton" profile everything works fine (of course the SW EQ mount wasnt found...)
What was wrong with my procedure?
Thanks in advance
Jürgen
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Thank you for the reply, Tracy. Same to me, I couldnt test it till now, because we have clouds and fog for some weeks now and will stay over christmas... 
. Perhaps you can give feedback if you can test it in the meantime. Thank you.
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If you are in focus at daytime you may have to correct the focus when photographing the stars, because at that big focal length 3km is not infinity. So if you saw some donuts: these should be the stars. Try to focus the donuts and you will see stars. Set the exposure time and gain that you can see the donuts.
Dont you have tracking on your 4se?
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my 2 cent: I'm stacking with APP, and I never worried about the orientation before and after meridian flip. It just works, APP orientates the pictures. As far as I rememebr also SIRIL do it that way. I just throw all the pictures as they are into APP and it works... All the other stacking programms are the same. Never heard about such an issue...
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Steve, regarding Highlights, Midlights and Lowlights I would keep the Automatic Setting on (this is the button right from "highlights"). In the case in your picture everything is on "0", this leads to a white picture.
Regarding exposure time: I made sometimes the experience if the setting is too low I get no good results. Try 0.01s instead of 0.001s, but play with it, since it always depends on setup. Gain I would set for daytime photography to 0 or 1.
Regarding focus: Hy is right, that it might be, that it is not possible to get into focus with your camera with your current setup. Maybe you need some extensions. To check that it would be a possibility to point your telescope at the moon (or try it with the mountains, that should work too) and hold a white paper behind the scope. Remove the camera and eyepiece, so nothing should be in the focuser. Move the paper back and forth until you see a sharp picture on the paper. In that distance the camera sensor should be.
I would first check the exposure time / gain. If you get there a reasonable (maybe unfocused but good exposed picture) result you can then go on with the focus. You can watch the focus getting better or worth when moving the camera in or out and then you can see if you may need extensions or not.
In principle its easy but long to describe and for a beginner it is sometimes a little bit confusing
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You can enter the focal length of your telescope and the size of your camera sensor into stellarium and check, how "big" your field is, which you can see with your setup. At least for my stellarium (version 0.22.2) it is that way that you can click on the "wrench" in the upper right edge of the screen to go to the setup of "sensors" and "telescopes" and you can click on the circle with the rectangle in it (the third symbol from the right) on the upper right edge to get that red rectangel on the sky map.
A few pictures:
look at the right upper edge with the symbols (you can also see an example for my sensor, and also the OAG but that is not important for you):
second picture shows the "telescope" list, my 8inch F% newton as example here:
And here the resulting sketch of the field of fiew for the setup (with info about pixel size and size of the FOV):
HTH
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Hi Steve,
perhaps it would be good to focus the scope during the day on a distant object to get at least the rough focus. During daytime you maybe have to reduce the exposure time to 0.01s or even less, and also play with the gain. Then dont touch the focus until night
After you get this rough focus you can point your scope at night to a bright star and play around with gain and exposure time. The problem may be, that your 4se has 1.4m focal length and therefor a quite small field of view (*). This brings some more difficulties. I think to start with an exposure time of 2-5s should be ok, then you have to play with gain until you see stars. The stars then maybe not in exact focus but near to it (since the stars are even more distant than your object during daytime).
(*) Perhaps one recommendation: use stellarium to look, what you can get into your field of view. In stellarium you can set your focal length and your camera parameters (pixel size and so on) and you will see, what area you can see.
Good luck
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