I need a focuser that is Indi compatible. I really don't want to fork out £400+ for a MoonLite focuser so I have decided to build a myFocuserPro (and use the saved cash to buy myself a 3D printer...). Has anyone successfully used myFocuserPro with Indi? And are both myFocuserPro and myFocuserPro2 compatible, or is it only myFocuserPro that works with Indi?
RPI 3 B+ with Stellarmate OS.
SW200P on HEQ5Pro, Canon 550D, ZWO ASI2120MC
I used the myFocusPro2 for the best hardware build including buying the printed circuit board from Germany which helps for a neater and quicker build. Also use the myFocusPro2 .ino along with Windows provided software to test your build.
Then you need to use the older myFocusPro site instead to change the Arduino over to the .ino there, that supports the Moonlite protocol and is compatible with INDI.
The author indicated too much functionality was added in myFocuserPro2 .ino to also fit the Moonlite support.
That is as it was last time I visited about a year ago.
I use the Hansastro focuser & this works well with the indi moonlite driver as does the Ardufocus, I've built both versions with good results no disconnections or error codes with either, I prefer the Hansastro version but that's only my personal preference.
To be honest I've never tried using the absolute focuser position, as I set up & take down my scope each session, so I always return the focuser to the home position (0) at the end of every session for packing away.
I have a NEMA 17 motor geared down with a 4 to 1 reduction via a toothed belt drive, driven via an A4988 stepper driver, gives great results with the focus module, I've checked the results with a Bahtinov mask and they are spot on even with the colour filters in place.
i have used MyFocuserPro (which I built few years ago) with Indi MoonLite protocol in Indi. Also have changed to MyFocuserPro2 and that does not work with Moonlite driver. So I wrote a driver that is working for me in Indi, but is far from complete and it might be some rework with latest Indi driver. (Not all functionality and settings implemented. There is a GUI now for Linux that can be used for config. (on MF2 website). If there is a real interest I might consider taking it op again, or if someone wants to have my sources to complete the driver feel free to ask.
I am currently using a MyFocuserPro with KStars. My set up is an all in one box (DIY) comprising an Odroid XU4 (super RPi), the MyFocuserPro, MyDewController, powered USB3 hub, the box has 4 X 12v dc outlets and sits at the scope. Camera (ASI 294MCpro and ASI120SS (guider). My NEQ6pro connects to the hub through serial to USB. I use a 2 TB external drive connected to the odoid that has all the astrometry files loaded and is an optional fits download site. I connect the odroid to a wifi extender at the scope with ethernet and I connect initially with a laptop through wifi while setting up through Team Viewer to get the Odroid up and running headless using Ubuntu Mate. I start up Kstars and EKOS/indi and then close the laptop go inside and do everything on my desktop. i.e startup KStars for Windows /EKOS/INdi and connect remotely through the home network (using Odroid IP address) and wifi extender. Astrometry is done remotely by the odroid at the scope and takes 20-30 secs initially but more rapidly as the mount model improves.
I can run a nights AP using scheduler or do each module individually. Either way it all works well. The MyFocuserPro (I use the stripboard nano version) with Moonlight driver has never missed a beat and probably is the most reliable part of my setup. I highly recommend it. The latest KStars 3.1.1 and latest INDI drivers appear pretty stable currently in my setup. Shame the same cannot be said about the weather!
There are some pictures and an explanation on IceInSpace. Here is the link
I run it off a 10amp 12 volt power supply but have used a 100AH battery too. I am always a bit cautious pulling everything off 1 battery supply although no real reason why it would not take it.
By way of explanation the large square thing on the box is a cooling fan as the odroid can get a bit warm and so can the dew controller. This is thermostatically controlled from the dew controller pcb temp so keeps it all nice and cool in our summer heat in Queensland.
The Odroid is significantly more powerful than the RPi and uses USB3. The downside is the heat.