Hi
As
this fix
works, why don't we simplify the code and use bulb for everything? Is there an advantage of using different code if a time is set in camera?
It's there in the code now and turned on by default. Reason is the camera timer is always going to be more accurate than software timer so in my camera if I turn that option off and take 10 seconds exposures, it's going to use camera timer and the not the driver timer so it's inherently more accurate.
The v2.5 of the driver (in nightly) have this fix and we'll roll it out to stable soon.
So you ran the test after choosing manual mode (dial) and bulb (wheel)?
Out of curiosity: What happens if you take the 30s photo first, after turning on the camera (manual/bulb activated)? Did you ever see a 30s exposure fail when no other foto had been taken before?
Yes, choosing manual, then bulb with the wheel. It seems like there is no problem if I don't do a 1 sec exposure. THat is, start it, then for instance 15 sec alignment and so on, and then capture. It is the focus that is tricky, there I typically have around 1 sec exposure. However, it seems intermittent so I have not really been able to see any real pattern except that if I start with a 1 sec preview, it is high risk for problems.
REgarding the fix: should there now be an option to choose "always bulb" or something? I cannot find it. I'm using indi-gphoto 2.5~201809241257~ubuntu16.04.1
Not sure if it is related, but when I close the CCD preview window, EKOS/KStars/Indiserver crash.
This happens after I updated everything yesterday, presumably including the new driver...
I am running everything on a Pi3, did not get to viewing the post mortem logs.
I have had a similar issue, it stemmed from the polar alignment assistant. If I run a refresh of 1.000 second exposures, or another increment that is a default on the camera's dial, while adjusting my polar alignment, I noticed that, that value (1 Second, 2 seconds etc.) if it is a factory default timer increment on the camera's wheel it will stay that way after completing the polar and alignment. Then I have to manually scroll the camera's dial to BULB, as it will be stuck on 1 sec, or 2 etc. Now if I do a refresh with an exposure of say 6 seconds during the polar alignment, the camera will stay in BULB as 6 seconds is not an exposure option on my Canon T6 (1300D). It was frustrating at first, but after I figured out the correlations, I just remind myself to set the refresh exposure to 6 seconds, or remind myself to check the exposure timer setting on the camera, before setting up a capture sequence. Sorry if that doesn't seem too clear but its the best way I can describe it for now.