Jose Corazon replied to the topic 'New Internal Guider Features' in the forum. 2 days ago

Lead_weight wrote: This comment isn’t directly related to the new features, but is related to something you mentioned about recalibration. This has caused me problems in the past when NOT guiding. I use non-guided dither pulses, with no guiding on my 10Micron, but after meridian flip, it triggers a recalibration even though I have guiding off, and tries to guide again without dithering since it does not work with non-guided dither pulses.

So I often guide, even though it can make things worse with a 10Micron that doesn’t need correction. Just some extra info to help make an informed decision on recalibration.

Thanks for your work, I will definitely give multi-star a try. Will multi star eliminate the effects of seeing possibly? Does it average out the movement of all the stars?


When you say that 'recalibration is giving you problems', did you have the box in the guide module that allows you to activate the option to recalibrate after the mount slews checked or unchecked?
You should be able to just uncheck it and then there would be no recalibration.



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Jose Corazon replied to the topic 'New Internal Guider Features' in the forum. 2 days ago

hy wrote: Chris,

Please let me know exactly what you mean by "change the correction" and I can look into it.
FWIW, my ideas about adaptive calibration would probably cover those issues, though it might take a while to adapt.

In my experience, though, unless you're very close to the pole, the guiding angles (and the approximation that the RA
and DEC directions are perpendicular in the image) suffice, especially given the seeing noise.

Hy



The multistar guide algorithm works great, I have been testing it for a little over a week now. However, I just realized that I had not turned on the PEC option, so will do that now (that box was off by default).

As for the recalibration option: I have been a big promoter of that one. I agree with you that it is probably not necessary when you are using a good mounts, but with a lower end mount I find that it is an indispenaible option to have.
Currently, there is the option in the guide module to just turn that option - recalibrate when the mount slews - off (or on). It would be great to keep that.
I do not use it on my EQMOD mount, for the reasons Hy stated, but on my low end (highly portable, that's why I love/hate it) iOptron SmartEQPro+ mount it is an essential option. The periodic error on that mount is just too great, so if there is the additional error resulting from a variation in the angle upon declination change, it may just kill the session.

That being said, I am still wondering whether the problem I am having with my iOptron SmartEQPro+ mount lies in the iOptron telescope driver. I am seriously thinking about getting a CEM25P instead (sole reason is the much lower weight of the iOptron mounts), but would very much like to see the guide logs on those. So if anyone has such a mount, please post or send me a few representative guide logs that I can analyze.

Thanks to you all and, of course, especially to Hy for improving the internal guider tremendously!

Jo

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Jose Corazon replied to the topic 'Help For INDI Website' in the forum. 3 days ago

I had the same problem with the CAPTCHA, the way around that is to select the area where the question is asked with the cursor (of course, that means you first need to know that there is question in the white area below). Then it becomes visible.

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Jose Corazon replied to the topic 'Re:M 62' in the forum. 4 days ago

mhammady wrote:

El Corazon wrote: The stars in a cluster will wash out and lose color when shot at 180s and 800 ISO. That is an exposure appropriate for a medium intensity nebula, not for stars, especially at f/6.3. Too much light


What do you recommend as setting when shooting bright objects as stars?


Thank you
Mohamed


As I wrote above, I would suggest ISO 100 or 200. You may also want to reduce the exposure time. The longer the exposure the more danger of vibration.

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Jose Corazon replied to the topic 'Re:M 62' in the forum. 4 days ago

Concur with the vibration. A wooden deck with a long focal length is a problem.

The stars in a cluster will wash out and lose color when shot at 180s and 800 ISO. That is an exposure appropriate for a medium intensity nebula, not for stars, especially at f/6.3. Too much light

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Jose Corazon replied to the topic '1st light: NGC 7000' in the forum. 5 days ago

maxthebuilder wrote: Well, it's an easy target if one has the right tools.
Looks like the OP has an un-modded DSLR. It's not an easy target for an un-modded DSLR.
Just look at the picture he took - it doesn't show much.
I am actually shooting a mosaic of North America/Pelican right now. With a dual-band L-Enhace filter. With this filter and an ASI294 it's for sure easy.

El Corazon wrote: You may want to focus on The Wall or the Neck of the Pelican with such a long focal length.

I disagree with Max, NGC7000 is actually an easy target, the Trifid is more difficult, if you want to see the reflection nebula, that is.

NGC7000 is very bright, but you may need an Halpha filter to get rid of the light pollution.

This is a stack of 50 x 120s Ha exposures.



Hi Max,

This is one of the very first pictures I took of NGC7000 with an unmodified DSLR from Bortle 8/9 skies. (Below)
Mohamed chose the most featureless part of the nebula with a long focal length, that's one reason why it doesn't show much.
That is why Jerry and I suggested to focus on a more feature-rich region, like the Wall or the Neck of the Pelican. There is more contrast in that region and that would help him to fine-tune.

Actually, with such a long focal length, I would suggest going for the Ring Nebula. Very bright, very colorful, perfect unmodded DSLR target at that magnification.

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Jose Corazon replied to the topic 'M 62' in the forum. 5 days ago

I still think it is the instability of your deck. It will amplify the slightest shaking from wind or someone walking in the house.
Washout means too long exposure. If you want stars, not faint nebulosity, you don't need 800 ISO (how long was the exposure?). Try again with 100 or 200 ISO.
Jo

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Jose Corazon replied to the topic '1st light: NGC 7000' in the forum. 6 days ago

You may want to focus on The Wall or the Neck of the Pelican with such a long focal length.

I disagree with Max, NGC7000 is actually an easy target, the Trifid is more difficult, if you want to see the reflection nebula, that is.

NGC7000 is very bright, but you may need an Halpha filter to get rid of the light pollution.

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Jose Corazon replied to the topic 'scheduler: guiding aborted but capture continues' in the forum. 2 weeks ago

Wolfgang,

If I checkout your scheduler_enforce_guiding branch, will that supersede the master branch of the regular kstars repositiory?
Hy recently merged his new guiding and periodic error correction algorithm, I wanted to install that at the same time.
There is tons of new stuff since my last update, I just can't figure out what comes from your branch and what comes from master.

Steve, Wolfgang's repo checks out fine for me and the Pi is happily compiling. I just don't know what....

Jo

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Jose Corazon replied to the topic 'My focus values drift over time???' in the forum. 2 weeks ago

Hoi Peter,

I sent you a PM, let's continue discussion offline.

Jo

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Jose Corazon replied to the topic 'My focus values drift over time???' in the forum. 2 weeks ago

That's a shame, Peter. From your description, that short must have been inside the 12 V socket.

Well, let's see what Pegasus Astro says. The part is not very expensive. You can get one for as little as $2 from Amazon.

smile.amazon.com/Detectorcatty-TB6612FNG...s=electronics&sr=1-8

So, if Pegasus Astro says they can't repair it or it would be very expensive to do so, you may want to have a go yourself. You just need a soldering iron with a very fine tip, a magnifying glass and a steady hand. Desolder the old controller, then use fine wires to connect the main board to the breakout board.

Alternatively, I would suggest putting your own autofocus controller together. This one works beautifully.

File Attachment:

File Name: SolderlessFocuser.pdf
File Size: 857 KB


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Jose Corazon replied to the topic 'My focus values drift over time???' in the forum. 2 weeks ago

Hoi Peter,

yes, that seems to show that the motor is fine. So it looks like this is a unipolar stepper. Red should be the common wire that splits the coils in half. So when putting one connector on the red wire, ALL the others should read 50 Ohms, right? If only 3 wires then read 50 Ohms and the fourth shows high resistance, then that would indicate that the coil is fried between those two connectors.

Anyway, the common wire could have a different color, I don't know, but one of them should show that behavior. Then the other wires should group into 2 pairs that show 100 Ohms. If so, then all parts of the coils are fine and you can eliminate the motor as the culprit. That leaves the stepper controller, arghhh!

In that case, it looks like the stepper controller is fried and you would have to contact Pegasus Astro to find out what to replace it with. The PDF you provided the link to does not say.

Can you post a picture of the stepper controller that allows one to read the label? From the specifications on the Pegasus web site it looks like this may be a DRV8825. If so, that is not an expensive part to replace especially if it is not soldered onto the board but connected through a socket. Since that is the part that would have to absorb the brunt of the surge generated by the short, it would make sense that it got fried.

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Jose Corazon replied to the topic 'My focus values drift over time???' in the forum. 2 weeks ago

I would measure the resistance of the stepper coils first. If you fried a coil, resistance will be high. If the coils are intact, you should find low Ohm resistance (consult the spec sheet for the stepper to find out what the coil resistance should be ). It could also be the stepper controller (not sure what focuser you are using, self-built, commercial?). Is it Arduino driven? From what you are writing, it seems the microcontroller is still functional, otherwise Ekos would not recognize the focuser. So that's good news. If it is just the motor, that is easy to replace.
Can you share the wiring diagram?

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